Day 1 - We've come to see the legendary fall colours. We leave the Dempster Highway with heavy packs, trudge up Vantage Ridge for our first view of high peaks. We arrive at a viewpoint just as rays of sunlight burst from behind storm clouds, cutting through the craggy summits. This far north, the sun is slow to set, even in August, and it is dusk just as we reach Grizzly Lake and set camp. After spreading out warm bags, and cooking dinner, we sit beside the lake (totally bugfree!) and watch night fall over the peaks, awaiting the Aurora.
Day 2 - Up early, and after breakfast, we follow a snaking trail upwards, towards Glissade Pass, and the Valley of the North Klondike River. A gentle rain passes us, leaving the skies clear but windy as we reach the rocky pass. On the far side, colour highlights the contours of the land, as underbrush turns yellow, orange, and red like waves breaking against the valley walls. Our descent is steep, a slope of pea-sized gravel funneling downwards. We leap into it. Running down the scree, the sloshing and sliding gravel making it feel like we are floating. We camp below, at a spot offering perfect views to the black granite walls of Mount Monolith rearing up across Divide Lake, and spend the afternoon gazing at the impressive rock faces and watching fluffy clouds tumble across the skies, only to get torn apart on the jagged spires.